How eyelash serum works: Ingredients and mechanisms

1. Types of eyelash serums
2. Active ingredients and their effects
3. Why consistent use is crucial
4. Conclusion: how does an eyelash serum work?

• Conditioning eyelash serums nourish and protect existing eyelashes, while eyelash growth serums actively stimulate the growth phase.
• Active ingredients in growth serums include prostaglandin analogues, growth factors, botanical extracts, and peptides.
• Conditioning serums mainly contain oils, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, and glycerin.

Eyelash serums can be divided into two main groups based on their purpose and composition: conditioning serums and growth-stimulating serums.

These serums focus on caring for existing eyelashes. They improve the hydration, elasticity, and shine of the eyelash hairs, making them appear temporarily fuller and healthier.

Typical ingredients include:

• Vegetable oils (such as castor oil or coconut oil)
• Shea butter
• Hyaluronic acid
• Panthenol
• Glycerin

These substances strengthen the hair structure and reduce breakage, but have no direct influence on the hair growth cycle. They are therefore ideal for maintaining healthy eyelashes, but not for stimulating new growth.

This category includes serums that are specially designed to activate the biological growth of eyelashes. They influence the natural hair growth cycle and strengthen the hair follicles, allowing the eyelashes to become longer and thicker.

The effect is based on ingredients that prolong the anagen (growth) phase of the hair cycle and improve hair anchoring. With regular use, this results in a noticeable increase in length, volume, and strength.

The effectiveness of an eyelash growth serum is determined by the biochemical activity of the ingredients and the way they work together within the formula. There are roughly two types of growth serums:

1. Serums based on prostaglandin analogues or growth factors.
2. Serums with peptides and botanical extracts.

This group of ingredients has been most extensively researched and is considered the most effective approach for stimulating eyelash growth. Prostaglandin analogues mimic the action of the body's own substances involved in cell growth and tissue repair.

They extend the anagen phase of the eyelash cycle, the period during which hairs actively grow, and delay the onset of the resting phase. This gives eyelashes more time to become longer and thicker before they fall out.

Scientific studies show that users experience visible lengthening and thickening of their eyelashes within 4 to 8 weeks with consistent use of serums containing prostaglandin analogues or growth factors.

Botanical extracts, such as ginseng, green tea, or pumpkin seed extract, promote microcirculation around the hair follicles. This increases the supply of oxygen and nutrients to the eyelash roots.

This improved blood flow can lead to:

• Healthier eyelash structure
• Less hair loss
• Stronger growth from the root

Although the effect is more subtle than with prostaglandin analogues, botanical extracts contribute to the overall vitality and durability of the eyelashes.

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as signaling molecules. They strengthen the structure of the eyelash hairs and stimulate the cells in the hair follicles to produce keratin, the main building block of hair, more efficiently.

The effects of peptides are:

• Better anchoring of the eyelash in the hair follicle
• Protection against breakage
• Increase in thickness and strength

This strengthening effect helps eyelashes stay in place longer and gives them a fuller, healthier appearance.

Eyelash serum does not work immediately, because it follows the natural hair growth cycle. The average growth cycle of an eyelash is 6 to 8 weeks. Only after several complete cycles will the effects become clearly visible.

Structural use is essential because:

• The growth phase must be continuously supported.
• New eyelashes need time to develop.
• The results achieved gradually fade when you stop.

Most users see the first results after 4 to 8 weeks of daily use. Once the desired result has been achieved, maintenance can be continued with 2 to 3 applications per week.

The main difference between the two serums lies in their purpose and effect. Conditioning serums moisturize and nourish existing eyelashes, temporarily adding shine and volume, but do not stimulate new growth. They contain nourishing ingredients such as oils, shea butter, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, and glycerin.

Growth serums, on the other hand, contain active ingredients such as prostaglandin analogues, growth factors, peptides, and botanical extracts. These directly influence the eyelash growth cycle, strengthen the anchoring of the hair follicle, and promote keratin production. The result is fuller, longer, and stronger eyelashes.

A good example of a formula that effectively applies these scientific principles is Superlash. Thanks to its proven active ingredients and carefully balanced concentrations, this serum stimulates natural eyelash growth in a safe, skin-friendly way.

[1] Baiyasi et al. Eyelash serums: A comprehensive review. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024 Jul;23(7):2328-2344.

Sanchez et al. Prostaglandin analogs and hair follicle stimulation mechanisms. Dermatol Res Pract. 2022; ID 4893652. PubMed: Clinical studies on peptide-based eyelash growth formulations.